How To: Macro Photography

Prompted by Will, I thought I'd write up my experiences with macro photography. Sorry film snobs, but I gave up huffing chemicals in college. Digital is the future ... 5 years ago.

TERMS
Technically, "macro" means any setup that gives a 1:1 subject-to-film ratio. For example a ladybug should take up as much area in the photo as it would if placed directly on the negative or digital sensor. So, when you enlarge that image to say 8x10 the bug looks huge.

There are 2 main types of cameras:

1. Fixed Lens - like a digicam. The main lens can not be removed, but adaptors can be added on the end. Kodak DX4900 and Fuji Finepix S7000 are the 2 I've used.
   
2. removable Lens - typically SLRs or DSLRs (digital single lens reflex). These are your typical 35mm cameras that have interchangeable lenses. Canon XT/350D or Nikon D70 are good intro level options.
   

MACRO RINGS (macro filters)
This is the cheapest way to go. Free in fact, if you have the supplies around the house. Basically, it's just a magnifying lens held in front of your main lens. Higher quality glass = better images. To make your own all you need is a magnifying lens and some way to hold it in place. Here's one example.

Or you can buy some. These days I use +1, +2, +4 stacked together. The more you stack the lower the image quality (purple fringe, distortion around the edges) but if you put them on a decent lens (like this one) it reduces the effects.

If your fixed lens camera has screw threads around the lens somewhere chances are you can find macro rings for it. Sometimes you'll need an adaptor as well - either a long tube to hold the filter beyond the main lens or a step-up/step-down ring to adjust for differences in the filter's diameter.

REVERSE LENS
Holding a 2nd lens backwards up to your main lens gives incredible magnification. Just be careful not to scratch your glass! You may also be able to find a reverse ring or reverse mount. These have threads on both sides so you can screw on the 2nd lens for hands free shooting.

The drawbacks I've found are that the aperture of the 2nd lens (iris) may create vignettes or black circle around the outside of the frame. Also, hand held shots are nearly impossible to keep in focus. And, more glass = lower quality, unless you spend $.

EXTENSION TUBES (bevels)
These go between the camera and the lens allowing you to focus closer. Honestly, I have not used these but plan to get some soon. Bevels are similar but expand or contract like an accordion. I'd guess that any distortions you have with your main lens will only be magnified with these. :-)

MACRO LENS
The highest quality option, but also the most expensive. Being short on gobs of cash I don't have any experience in this dept either. I do know that lots of lenses claim to be "macro" but expect to pay as much as a zoom when shopping for a real 1:1 or 2:1 macro lens.

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Some other stuff that might be useful ...

APERTURE (f-stop)
For macro this mainly effects depth of field (DOF) or how much is in focus. But, like the your own pupil aperture also effects how much light gets in. More DOF = less light. See the problem? Greater focus area = less light = slower shutter speed = more chance of a blurred image.

ISO (film speed)
You can offset low light with higher ISO setting. Higher numbers = faster exposure = more noise or spots in the image. DSLRs can usually go up to 1600 ISO without too much noise, but digicams look terrible at high settings.

FILL FLASH
One thing new photographers don't realize is that using your flash in daylight can be good, especially for macro where less light is getting in. Getting the right flash setting takes some practice, but the results are worth it.

An on-camera flash is usually too close to the lens for macro work, casting a shadow over your subject. See "milk bottle" below for a solution. A decent external flash may reach past the end of your lens and even detect how you're shooting to adjust the light level. Adding a diffuser (technical term for "piece-of-plastic-to-cover-flash") helps spread the light out.

There are 2 ways you can build your own diffuser:

1. White Paper - fold it over several times and tape it over the flash. Take a few test shots to make sure it's not too thin or too thick.
2. Milk Bottle (see image) - Cut off a large corner of the bottle and then cut a hole to fit the lens. You want a cone shape with a hole slightly off center.
   

HUNTING BUGS
And finally, how to match wits with insects.

Capturing insects really is a lot like hunting. You have to be sneaky and move real slow. But, instead of being down wind from your prey, you have to be down light - watch where you cast your shadow. A distracted bug won't notice much. Move in slow as it's eating or cleaning itself. Freeze if it pauses to look at you. Having a huge lens in the face would ruin anyone's meal.

predators are harder to capture, they have big eyes, are fast and tend to notice any movement. Dragonflies, wasps and roaming spiders are really camera shy. Dragonflies tend to return to the same spot, watch where they go. If you're there when they land they'll treat you like scenery until you move too fast. Spiders you can herd towards your lens ... if you dare. Wasps, well ... don't get stung.

Most bugs are slow moving in the morning when it's cold out, but then again aren't we all.

I hope this was useful to someone out there. Thanks for reading.